Over the years I’ve seen and tested a lot of saw blades, some are cheap and some cost over 100 dollars. I used to buy cheap ones, but I learned that it makes a lot of sense to invest in the best miter saw blade.
Not only do they perform better, but they just last longer. And they can be re-sharpened many times. But the problem is they are not cheap. You can easily spend well over $100 on one blade.
But do you have to? Not at all. There are a number of high-quality saw blades out there for right around that price or even less. You just can’t beat the quality of cuts that you can get from a good sliding miter saw set up with a good miter saw blade.
We have listed some of them here. All of these blades are of excellent quality, but which one performs the best? Read the full buying guide to find out.
DEWALT DW3128P5 80-Tooth 12 in. Miter Saw Blade
When you think about Dewalt, you think about quality. And if you want accurate cuts, this is the blade to go for. This crosscutting tungsten carbide miter saw blade can easily deal with plywood, hardwood, softwood or chipboard. It comes in a pack of 2 at an amazingly affordable price. These blades should fit any 12-inch saw.
Both of these thin kerfs, carbide blades feature a wedge shoulder design. One blade has 80 teeth and the other one has 32. Behind each blade tip, there is an increased amount of steel to ensure precision while preventing breakage.
The blades have a computer balanced design that helps to reduce vibration and friction. The best part about it is that you are actually getting two blades for the price of one.
This also ensures that you get a better feel and finish after every cut. You can use both of these blades with slide miter saws and regular miter saws. Since they are tungsten carbide blades, they will usually last longer and the thin kerf design will allow for a fast and smooth cutting experience. For portability and storage, you will also get a carrying bag.
- It comes in a pack of 2.
- Tungsten carbide blade and thin kerf.
- One 80 teeth blade and one 32 teeth blade.
Diablo D1080X ATB Fine Finish Saw Blade
A lot of you might think that the blades from Diablo are slightly overpriced. But it is actually the opposite. They are actually very affordable compared to other popular brands they are great blades. Did you know that Freud who makes Diablo blades are owned by Bosch?
If you want chip-free results and remarkably clean cuts, look no further. 80 Hi-ATB (alternate-top bevel) teeth and 0.98-inch think kerf between the blades.
This blade is all about clean and accurate cuts. It is strong, has a long-lasting resistance and has laser-cut stabilizer vent trap noise and vibration. It helps to keep the blade cool and reduces warp. It’s a 10-inch blade with 5/8-inch laser cut arbor. If you look closely on the blade, you will notice heat expansion slots.
These holes are there to help the blade expand during heat build-up. The Diablo D1080X uses micrograin titanium carbide for durability and the carbide tips have tri-metal shock resistant brazing for maximum durability and allow the tips to withstand extreme impact. Overall, I think this is the best miter saw blade for trim.
- Extremely durable and longer lasting blade.
- It is made for delicate finish work.
- Fits a variety of miter saws and table saws.
Makita A-93681 10-Inch 80 Tooth Micro Polished Mitersaw Blade
The Makita A-93681 is the best miter saw blade for the price. It can cut 2×4’s like butter while generating fewer small dust particles. There are better blades out there but not at this price. It has the best bang for the buck and solid enough to be used every day on all types of wood. From softwood to ultra-hardwood, you won’t find a better value blade.
If you don’t want to spend that much for a basic cutting blade, I would highly recommend you go with this one. It’s a great 10-inch 80 tooth blade that features Japanese ultra-thin kerf and the blade itself has a carbide-tipped design. You will have a minimal material loss, less drag on the motor and can get smoother cuts.
For ultra-precision cutting, it uses an alternative top and alternative face tooth design. On top of that, the micro-grain carbide teeth are honed 600 grit that results in a mirror-like finish. For achieving true cuts, the steel saw plates are expertly hand tensioned and fully hardened. In short, it is the best miter saw blade for 2×4.
- .091″ ultra-thin Japanese kerf.
- Micro-grain carbide teeth.
- Less drag on the motor and minimal material loss.
IRWIN Metal-Cutting Circular Saw Blade, 7-1/4″, 68T, 4935560
This metal cutting circular saw blade for IRWIN can easily cut 20+ sheets 4×8 and 3×5 HardieBacker cement boards. It’s very affordable and lasts longer. Even after all the cutting, this blade can still produce smooth and clean cuts. It can retain the sharpness of the teeth for a long time. This is your best solution for cutting metal roofing sheets on a budget.
Unlike other metal cutting blades, it won’t burn through the metal or damage the paint. It shreds off the metal in a slow manner while creating almost zero heat. Just make sure to use protective clothing because the metal silvers that the saw spits out can and will get stuck in your skin.
Make sure the blade spins at top rpm and maintain a slow and steady cut, you don’t need to rush. If you can do that, you can work flawlessly without any chipping.
It also works well with acrylic and won’t crack the material. This is a laser cut blade that has anti-vibration vents truer, straighter cutting. For improved safety, it has anti-kickback tooth shoulders. For durability purpose, the teeth on this blade use metal-cutting grade carbide.
- The ideal blade for cutting thin metal.
- Less heat and drag.
- Anti-kickback tooth shoulder.
Amana Tool A.G.E. Series MD12-106 Heavy Duty Miter/Double Miter Bore Saw Blade
A.G.E stands for American German Engineering. This series of blades are manufactured by Amana Tool company in Germany. It’s a 100-tooth blade that is ideal for making glass smooth cuts in picture frames and moldings. It’s a 12-inch blade and teeth feature 4 ATB+R 1 which means four Alternate Top Bevel that is followed by one Raker grind.
It’s a laser cut blade that has heat expansion slots. When heat builds up, these slots allow the blade to expand and contract from generating heat which in return protects the blade by preventing warpage.
This blade is designed in a way that you can use it for years. It has a massive steel plate. The European carbide tips are extra-large that allows for more resharpenings.
It’s an industrial grade blade made for professional hobbyists and mid-size cabinet shop owners. Although it’s an industrial quality blade, it comes at a great value.
Also, don’t forget the fact that you can easily resharpen this blade a couple of times. Considering all of the features above, these features will surely assist in giving it a longer blade life and retain smooth cutting.
- A stiffer blade that offers burr-free clean cuts.
- Industrial quality blade.
- Tight clearance tolerance.
IRWIN Tools Classic Series Steel Table / Miter Circular Saw Blade
This circular saw blade features 180 teeth count for smooth and accurate cuts. It’s a fully-hardened circular saw blade with heavy-gauge solid steel construction. Not only is it rugged but the blade plate runs truer and longer while extending the circular saw blade life.
The best part about this blade is that you can use it to cut nonferrous metal with ease without producing any sparks or loss of material.
You can also use this blade to cut angle bar and iron stock. It will cut faster and cleaner than most 14-inch cutoffs saw blades that run abrasive discs. Plus, the benefit of not having any shower of sparks is a huge benefit.
It’s an ideal blade for roofing jobs. Also, you can prolong the service life of this blade by resharpening it every now and then. Take this blade to any saw shop and they will sharpen it for you under 10 bucks or so.
The blade has a thin kerf and features 5/8-inch arbor. There are more expensive blades out there that will perform better than this one, but at this price, this blade is worth every penny because of its cost to performance ratio.
It’s a solid metal cutting on my book. If you want to get the job done at a cheap price, look no further.
- Works really well with acrylic.
- Budget metal cutting miter saw blade.
- 180 teeth count.
Freud 10″ x 80T Ultimate Plywood & Melamine Blade
Whether you are a professional woodworker or a high professional cabinet workshop owner, one thing is for certain, you need to rely on precision quality cutting tools to deliver superior quality results.
After years of testing, Freud has come up with superior quality cutting blade with innovative technology that makes their product perfect for anyone that’s looking to get some quality blades.
Freud is the only company in the world that specializes in carbide manufacturing. Every Freud saw blade is cut from premium quality hardened steel plate using high-performance industrial lasers to produce the most stable, precise the most consistent blade body possible.
This blade has laser cut anti-vibration slots, noise and heat absorbing vents that keep the cutting edge exceptionally straight and true.
Each saw blade receives a Perma-Shield non-stick coating that helps reduce the drag of the blade. This 10-inch blade has 80 teeth count with Hi-ATB Grind. It has a thin .126″ Kerf with positive 2-degree angle and 5/8″ laser cut arbor.
All of the features assist this blade in giving out maximum performance, extending the blade life, splinter-free cuts, and a flawless finish.
- Hi-Density Carbide Crosscutting blade.
- Splinter-free cuts.
- Non-stick coating to reduce drag.
TOMAX 12-Inch 100 Tooth TCG Aluminum and Non-Ferrous Metal Saw Blade
This 12-inch blade is ideal for cutting nonferrous metals. There are other manufacturers that specialize in making blades for cutting this type of metal and they generally have a negative rake design.
Most of them have carbide ground design with triple chip configuration. This allows the blade to give glass smooth cuts and give out a better performance than most ATBR positive hook design blade.
This 100-tooth blade can easily cut plastic and aluminum with minimal material loss. The carbide grade constructed teeth on this blade provides a lot of resistance for a longer life cycle.
On top of that, it has an electrophoretic coating that prevents rust and corrosion. For achieving the smooth and durable cut, this blade uses TCG grind. It also features the anti-kickback shoulder to prevent binding.
On the blade, there are laser cut anti-vibration slots that effectively reduce sideways movement and vibration in the cutting process. Not only does it extend the blade’s life, but it also gives a splinter-free, crisp flawless finish. The blade will also remain sharp for a long time and you can easily do a lot of resharpenings on this one.
- It has a sharper edge.
- Laser cut anti-vibration slots.
- Longer lifetime and more sharpenings.
Freud 10″ x 80T Plastic Blade
When you need a blade that will produce less heat when cutting acrylic material and other plastic material, the Freud LU94M010 is the ideal blade for the job. The LU94 series features Freud’s premium TiCo high-density carbide with a modified triple chip grind geometry that can be sharpened up t 10 times.
It comes equipped with Freud’s anti-vibration technology that helps stabilize the blade.
It produces smooth clean cuts and a silver ice coating to resist heat building. It also lasts two times longer than standard blades. This one sets the industry standard for users when cutting delicate material that handles heat poorly.
The blade stays cool and outperforms all carbide tipped plastic cutting blades in the industry. This 10-inch blade with 80 tooth count has .110” thin kerf with negative 3-degree angle.
It’s thin, sharp, precise and durable. This blade can remain very cool while cutting and eliminates melting. Since this one has negative hook angles, it can easily produce superior finish holding onto the material. This heavy-duty industrial blade keeps the cut edge crisp while working with a wide range of plastic material.
- Laser cut anti-vibration design.
- Ideal for dealing with plastic material.
- Lasts longer than most standard carbide blades.
HICO 10″ 80-Tooth TCG Metal Saw Blade
The last saw blade in this list is the HICO CBM 1080 Pro Series. It’s a 10-inch blade with 80 tooth count that delivers ultra-fine finish. This one is designed to cut nonferrous metals such as aluminum, bronze, copper, brass and more.
It can even handle plexiglass, plastics, acrylics, PVC and fiberglass. This is a versatile cutting blade that can be used on a table saw, miter saw, sliding miter saw and circular saw.
It has a laser cut 5/8-inch arbor with hi-density carbide and titanium construction. This one has a flawless finish and lasts longer than most other blades at a similar price point. Speaking of price, this is most probably the cheapest blade in this list but performs just as well.
There are laser-cut stabilizer vents on the blade that trap noise and vibration. These vents keep the tool cool while reducing blade warp.
It’s a good product for the price and works exceptionally well when cutting aluminum. It’s a bit aggressive but never fails to deliver smooth cuts. However, expect some aluminum shavings on the floor when you cut.
There will be metal filings everywhere so watch out for that. But for the price you are paying, I would say it is pretty normal.
- The ideal blade for cutting nonferrous metals.
- Aggressive hook angle.
- Delivers smooth cuts when cutting aluminum.
How to Choose the Best Miter Saw Blade?
Want to know how I have chosen the best blade for miter saws? Well, let me show you. Miter saws are efficient and all that, but with a proper blade, you can get ultra-fine cuts every time you trim a piece of wood.
In this guide, I want to talk to you about what characteristics to look for when you are shopping for a blade for your miter saw and to make sure you get the right one hung in there.
Now, there are a couple of things that I want to point out for you to look for when you are shopping for a blade to get on your sliding miter saw.
First, let’s talk about tooth count.
You will see numbers like 40, 60, 80 and more on the specs of the blade. This number will tell you how many teeth there are on the blade. I would like to see that number at least 60. 80 is better. That is part of what works to give you that nice smooth cut.
The other thing that is really important to look for is called a hook angle on the teeth that is displayed right beside the teeth count. You will see numbers like negative 5, 7, 10, etc.
Now, what that means is that when you look at the teeth themselves, that tooth is leaning back away from the cut at a negative degree. What we want to do is to make sure that you don’t get a real strong positive hook on this.
A strong positive hook can be sort of grabby on the material that you are trying to cut. So, negative five is good and up to positive 7 is tolerable as far as acceptable hook angle goes for your blade.
That grabby idea also affects our tooth count. You don’t want to just grab any blade you have for your table saw and get it on your miter saw.
If the tooth count is too aggressive meaning the number is too small, it’s going to be very grabby and a little bit dangerous when you bring it the saw and try to cut wood with it.
So, again, find the tooth count and check for the angle up to positive 7 degrees.
The other thing you will see if you go back to hook angle, you will see sometime like TCG specified on the blade. What that stands for is the tooth geometry and TCG means triple chip grind.
On a TCG blade, if you look at the tooth it will sort of have a tombstone look to it. The top of it is flat, the main corner and the opposite corner has been ground off. The triple chip grind is a great tooth geometry to have for a sliding miter saw.
It is because you are going to be cutting slightly abrasive materials. So, if you commonly crosscut on your miter saw anything in the particle board family or non-ferrous metals, a triple chip grind is a great choice for that.
If you are primarily working with solid wood, an alternative top bevel tooth pattern will work fine for that.
Here are some of the common blade tooth configuration and its meaning.
- FT – Flat-Top
- ATB – Alternate Top Bevel
- Comb – Combination Tooth
- TCG – Triple Chip Grind
- Hi-ATB – High alternate bevel
Just like any other tools, the build quality is by far the most important factor when it comes to determining the quality. The best miter saw blades should be precise and lack of build quality can cause blade wrap which can throw off the precision causing uneven cuts.
As you know by now that the teeth count is the primary factor here, but the blade construction will have an impact on the quality of the cut. The blade should be evenly balanced and it preferable to have laser cut vents that prevent vibration.
Miter Saw Blade Vs Circular Saw Blade
Okay, so a lot of people out there don’t even know the difference between a miter saw blade and a circular saw blade. They spin in a different direction and because of that, the teeth on those blades point in different directions.
Sometimes it happens that you will end up buying a circular saw blade for your miter saw. This shit happens all the time and it will even fit perfectly. Because there is no damn difference between them.
All the difference crap is pure BS. The only problem is that the teeth are facing the wrong way. So, what will you do? Turn the blade around. It is perfectly safe to use a miter saw blade in a circular saw and vice versa. Just install it label down.
Again, it is perfectly safe for you to just flip the blade over and point the teeth in the proper direction and you will be good to go.
There are different types of the blade that can handle different types of cutting. Not all blades are equal and that’s why you need to familiarize yourself with their intended applications.
The primary types of cutting blades are:
- Metal cutting blade
- Combo blade
- Metal cutting
There are other blade types like dado-cut dry-diamond, abrasive wheel, etc. Some of the blades in this list are ideal for cutting softwood, plywood, hardwood and different types of wood.
Some are multi-purpose blades that can handle a wide variety of materials and there are some that specialize in cutting metals. If you want to avoid overspending, then I would suggest you stick with a certain type of blade.
Among all the material that is used to manufacture a saw blade, carbide and tungsten carbide are two of the most popular choices. Carbide is still now one of the most widely used material. Carbide blades are used to cut wood and different types of metal.
Tungsten carbide blades are almost similar to a carbide blade. These blades are used to cut plastic, aluminum, plywood, laminated boards, and other delicate materials.
When it comes to miter saw blades, there are basically three different sizes. 8, 10- and 12-inch blades. You should choose a size depending on your miter saw. Usually, a larger diameter blade will do more cuts than a small diameter blade but if you don’t have the proper saw size, it won’t fit.
You should also look at the kerf size. The thinner the kerf, the better it will be able to perform. You should always buy a set of blades of varying size if you don’t plan on changing or upgrading your cutting saws.
Having some additional protective features like coating, laser cut vents and carbide teeth will prolong the lifespan of the blade. Coatings are applied not only to protect the blade but also increase overall performance by reducing corrosion and friction.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Now, as important as it is to get the right saw blade, you should also consider some safety options. The blade does most of the work, but you have to be cautious when working with one if you want to achieve smooth and safe cuts.
- Zero Clearance
If you want the smoothest cuts possible, you should add zero clearance table inserts. You can use double-sided tape to strip the hardboard to the fence just enough to fully support the stock material you are cutting.
- Proper Set Up
Start with the fence. See if it’s properly in place because the lack of support on either side will result in vibration and dangerous cuts. Also, make sure the surface of the fence is perpendicular to the blade. Once tightened in, calibration is necessary.
- Proper Cutting Techniques
Don’t let the teeth of the blade touch your workpiece twice. The two most common problems associated with miter saws are due to careless cutting techniques. You can either end up with ragged edges or have a small cutoff piece sent airborne. Try to cut in a single swoop and hold down the blade until it stops spinning. No part of the teeth should touch the cut piece twice.
We almost at the end of this guide. Hopefully, this small piece of info will help you decide which blade will be right for you. Since there are a lot of models to choose from, it was kind of hard to choose only 10. However, that doesn’t mean other brands/products are bad. It all comes down to whichever gives the most bang for your buck.
You can spend a premium to get the premium quality or you can go cheap but still get the job done. Don’t go for the most expensive industrial grade quality but don’t go for the cheapest one. Make sure to buy the best miter saw blade that can give you the cutting quality you want without spending a fortune.